How I Built My CPAP Machine
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Resmeds10 cpap motor
Resmeds10 cpap motor
Resmeds10 cpap motor
1.
“Resmeds10 cpap” Motor/Blower):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BD8NPSRN
It is a lot more expensive (~$126) than it should be. Other similar motors/blowers are expected to work equally well.
2.
Just about any 6ft Universal Standard CPAP Tubing Hose should work (some better than others); quantity = 2.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Universal+Standard+CPAP+Tubing+Hose+6ft
“Resmeds10 cpap” Motor/Blower):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BD8NPSRN
It is a lot more expensive (~$126) than it should be. Other similar motors/blowers are expected to work equally well.
2.
Just about any 6ft Universal Standard CPAP Tubing Hose should work (some better than others); quantity = 2.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Universal+Standard+CPAP+Tubing+Hose+6ft
AResmeds10 cpap motor
3.
“RioRand 300W 5-50V PWM DC Brushless Electric Motor Speed Controller with Hall-Less”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087M3GVYX
Change the speed/pressure of the blower with the small square BLUE potentiometer at the top right corner of the board with a small screwdriver. Clockwise is faster/more speed and pressure.
Down the road, I may replace that blue potentiometer with a 10-turn potentiomter so I can get more stable fine tuning of speed and pressure.
“RioRand 300W 5-50V PWM DC Brushless Electric Motor Speed Controller with Hall-Less”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087M3GVYX
Change the speed/pressure of the blower with the small square BLUE potentiometer at the top right corner of the board with a small screwdriver. Clockwise is faster/more speed and pressure.
Down the road, I may replace that blue potentiometer with a 10-turn potentiomter so I can get more stable fine tuning of speed and pressure.
BResmeds10 cpap motor
CResmeds10 cpap motor
4.
“ALITOVE 24V 3A 72W AC to DC Adapter Power Supply Converter AC 100V ~ 240V to DC 24V 3amp Transformer with 5.5x2.1mm DC Output Jack for 5050 3528 LED Strip Module Light, CCTV Camera System”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RY7BPL/
I expect any good regulated 24VDC power suppy which can supply ~3A or more will work equally as well. I have yet to measure how many amps are really needed.
“ALITOVE 24V 3A 72W AC to DC Adapter Power Supply Converter AC 100V ~ 240V to DC 24V 3amp Transformer with 5.5x2.1mm DC Output Jack for 5050 3528 LED Strip Module Light, CCTV Camera System”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RY7BPL/
I expect any good regulated 24VDC power suppy which can supply ~3A or more will work equally as well. I have yet to measure how many amps are really needed.
DResmeds10 cpap motor
EResmeds10 cpap motor
FResmeds10 cpap motor
GResmeds10 cpap motor
5.
“Cable Matters [ETL Listed] 3 Pack Grounded Outlet with ON Off Switch, Single Outlet Switch ON Off/Plug Switch in Black”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKPBZX1/
“Cable Matters [ETL Listed] 3 Pack Grounded Outlet with ON Off Switch, Single Outlet Switch ON Off/Plug Switch in Black”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKPBZX1/
HC325 Humidifier Chamber
6.
“HC150 Heated Humidifier Chamber Reusable”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RDQ84C/
I do not know why the description on Amazon says “HC150” instead of “HC325” which is on the chamber.
In any case, I do NOT at all like these humidifier chambers and would only get them when there is no other option because they are way too expensive and very flimsy. It is very easy to separate the bottom metal from the plastic shell. They are very fragile.
See the picture below of one of these broken flimsy humidifier chambers. I’ve broken two in the past couple of months when I was changing the water in them.
Be that as it is, here is an interesting comment on Amazon regarding this chamber: “Got a second hand CPAP w/no humidifier. This and a coffee warmer worked like a charm” - “I IMPROVISED” on September 29, 2022.
“HC150 Heated Humidifier Chamber Reusable”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RDQ84C/
I do not know why the description on Amazon says “HC150” instead of “HC325” which is on the chamber.
In any case, I do NOT at all like these humidifier chambers and would only get them when there is no other option because they are way too expensive and very flimsy. It is very easy to separate the bottom metal from the plastic shell. They are very fragile.
See the picture below of one of these broken flimsy humidifier chambers. I’ve broken two in the past couple of months when I was changing the water in them.
Be that as it is, here is an interesting comment on Amazon regarding this chamber: “Got a second hand CPAP w/no humidifier. This and a coffee warmer worked like a charm” - “I IMPROVISED” on September 29, 2022.
BROKEN HC325 Humidifier Chamber
7.
So, I purchased a different Humidifier Chamber from 1800cpap.com that is way too expensive but looks like it might last much longer than the HC150 and HC325 chambers. I have not tried or studied it yet.
“HC300 Extended Life Water Chamber, SKU: HC300, MPN: HC300, Manufacturer: Fisher & Paykel”
https://www.1800cpap.com/fisher-and-paykel-hc300-extended-life-water-chamber
“HC300 Extended Life Water Chamber, SKU: HC300, MPN: HC300, Manufacturer: Fisher & Paykel”
https://www.1800cpap.com/fisher-and-paykel-hc300-extended-life-water-chamber
HC300 Extended Life Water Chamber
Manometer used to measure Air Pressure (cmH2O) at 0 CFPM of airflow
My adapter used to connect the manometer to standard CPAP tubing. WRONG size Nylon Barbed Fitting shown in picture!
8.
“Digital Manometer, Dual Port Air Pressure Meter Pressure Gauge HVAC Gas Tester, Differential Pressure Manometer with 5/16 Inches Diameter Pressure Port, Hti-Xintai”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3J4ZJ4/
“Digital Manometer, Dual Port Air Pressure Meter Pressure Gauge HVAC Gas Tester, Differential Pressure Manometer with 5/16 Inches Diameter Pressure Port, Hti-Xintai”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R3J4ZJ4/
9.
“uxcell Silicone Tubing 9/32"(7mm) ID x 3/8"(10mm) OD 6.6ft(2m) Silicone Rubber Tube Air Hose Pipe for Pump Transfer Clear; Size: 7mm x 10mm (I.D.xO.D.)”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PNRBMF5/
“uxcell Silicone Tubing 9/32"(7mm) ID x 3/8"(10mm) OD 6.6ft(2m) Silicone Rubber Tube Air Hose Pipe for Pump Transfer Clear; Size: 7mm x 10mm (I.D.xO.D.)”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PNRBMF5/
10.
“Proline Series 1/4-in x 1/2-in Barbed Barb x Mip Adapter Fitting, Item #877099, Model #NHB-193B, “Nylon Barbed Fitting”. THE PICTURE IS WRONG - WRONG SIZE!”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-4-in-Barbed-Barb-x-MIP-Adapter-Fitting/1000505031
“Proline Series 1/4-in x 1/2-in Barbed Barb x Mip Adapter Fitting, Item #877099, Model #NHB-193B, “Nylon Barbed Fitting”. THE PICTURE IS WRONG - WRONG SIZE!”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-4-in-Barbed-Barb-x-MIP-Adapter-Fitting/1000505031
11.
“Streamline 3/4-in x 1/2-in Copper Reducing Female Adapter, Model #W 01247L, Item #22633”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mueller-Streamline-1-in-Copper-Adapter-Fittings/5004023667
“Streamline 3/4-in x 1/2-in Copper Reducing Female Adapter, Model #W 01247L, Item #22633”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mueller-Streamline-1-in-Copper-Adapter-Fittings/5004023667
12.
“Streamline 3/4-in x 1/2-in Copper Fitting Reducer, Item #21665, Model #W 01326L”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mueller-Streamline-1-in-Copper-Reducer-Fittings/5003994735
The larger end of this item (#21665) fits snugly into the non-threaded end of item (#22633). To fit the standard CPAP tubing, I pushed these items together as little as needed. The larger end of item (#21665) is the part of this adapter that fits the standard CPAP tubing, so I want that part of the reducer (#21665) to be out as much as possible. I used hot melt glue to seal the seam and keep the copper fittings together. If I could change one thing about this adapter I would cut off the small end of the reducer (#21665) and debur because it is not needed/used and gets in the way of fitting the adapter better into the end of some types of standard CPAP tubing.
“Streamline 3/4-in x 1/2-in Copper Fitting Reducer, Item #21665, Model #W 01326L”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mueller-Streamline-1-in-Copper-Reducer-Fittings/5003994735
The larger end of this item (#21665) fits snugly into the non-threaded end of item (#22633). To fit the standard CPAP tubing, I pushed these items together as little as needed. The larger end of item (#21665) is the part of this adapter that fits the standard CPAP tubing, so I want that part of the reducer (#21665) to be out as much as possible. I used hot melt glue to seal the seam and keep the copper fittings together. If I could change one thing about this adapter I would cut off the small end of the reducer (#21665) and debur because it is not needed/used and gets in the way of fitting the adapter better into the end of some types of standard CPAP tubing.
My preferred CPAP mask
My preferred CPAP mask
13.
This is my preferred CPAP mask, although it has been manufactured flimsier and flimsier as the years have gone by:
“ComfortGel Blue Nasal CPAP Mask by Philips Respironics”
https://www.1800cpap.com/respironics-comfortgel-blue-cpap-nasal-mask-with-headgear?quantity=1&size=Small
SKU: 1070039 - Small, MPN: 1070039, Manufacturer: Philips Respironics, Size: Small
(The empty toilet paper roll tubes help the CPAP tubing last much longer at those connections; otherwise, the tubing droops and stretches, deforms and weakens.)
This is my preferred CPAP mask, although it has been manufactured flimsier and flimsier as the years have gone by:
“ComfortGel Blue Nasal CPAP Mask by Philips Respironics”
https://www.1800cpap.com/respironics-comfortgel-blue-cpap-nasal-mask-with-headgear?quantity=1&size=Small
SKU: 1070039 - Small, MPN: 1070039, Manufacturer: Philips Respironics, Size: Small
(The empty toilet paper roll tubes help the CPAP tubing last much longer at those connections; otherwise, the tubing droops and stretches, deforms and weakens.)
Oximeter I use to make sure my CPAP is working
Oximeter I use to make sure my CPAP is working
14.
This is the Oximeter I use to make sure my CPAP is working, but I am not 100% happy with it:
“CMI Health Rechargeable Pulse Oximeter - Adult Finger Sensor for Continuous Monitoring & Spot-Checking - Adjustable Alarm for Pulse Rate and SpO2 Levels - Carry Case, AC Adapter Included”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGHKQHT/
Model & Sensor Number: PC-66L W41, ASIN: B07KGHKQHT, Continuous Monitoring and Alarm
I am not 100% happy with this oximeter because the sensor you put on your finger is not all that comfortable, comes off fairly easily in the middle of the night, seems too sensitive, so the alarm wakes you up when it should not and ruins your sleep. The initial setup/change of the alarm levels was not very intuitive, and this oximeter costs way too much. However, it is a lot better than nothing and is probably good enough.
This is the Oximeter I use to make sure my CPAP is working, but I am not 100% happy with it:
“CMI Health Rechargeable Pulse Oximeter - Adult Finger Sensor for Continuous Monitoring & Spot-Checking - Adjustable Alarm for Pulse Rate and SpO2 Levels - Carry Case, AC Adapter Included”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGHKQHT/
Model & Sensor Number: PC-66L W41, ASIN: B07KGHKQHT, Continuous Monitoring and Alarm
I am not 100% happy with this oximeter because the sensor you put on your finger is not all that comfortable, comes off fairly easily in the middle of the night, seems too sensitive, so the alarm wakes you up when it should not and ruins your sleep. The initial setup/change of the alarm levels was not very intuitive, and this oximeter costs way too much. However, it is a lot better than nothing and is probably good enough.
Box enclosure and Air Filter
15.
This is or is very close to the air filter I currently use to filter the air before it gets to the intake of the CPAP blower/motor:
“Filtrete 14-in W x 14-in L x 1-in MERV 1 Basic Flat Air Filter (2-Pack)”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Filtrete-2-Pack-Flat-Panel-Common-14-in-x-14-in-x-1-in-Actual-13-7-in-x-13-7-in-x-0-8125-in-Basic-Flat-Air-Filter/50107172
Item #518727, Model #FPL11-2PK-24
I put the CPAP motor/blower inside a 10” L x 8“ W x 4.5” deep cardboard box and put this filter on top. Obviously, this is not the best filter. I need to put more time into the enclosure with a tighter, better filter. Sleep was calling.
* I think dust getting into the air intake is probably the biggest enemy of the CPAP motor/blower.
This is or is very close to the air filter I currently use to filter the air before it gets to the intake of the CPAP blower/motor:
“Filtrete 14-in W x 14-in L x 1-in MERV 1 Basic Flat Air Filter (2-Pack)”
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Filtrete-2-Pack-Flat-Panel-Common-14-in-x-14-in-x-1-in-Actual-13-7-in-x-13-7-in-x-0-8125-in-Basic-Flat-Air-Filter/50107172
Item #518727, Model #FPL11-2PK-24
I put the CPAP motor/blower inside a 10” L x 8“ W x 4.5” deep cardboard box and put this filter on top. Obviously, this is not the best filter. I need to put more time into the enclosure with a tighter, better filter. Sleep was calling.
* I think dust getting into the air intake is probably the biggest enemy of the CPAP motor/blower.
16.
Whenever I change the water in the humidifier chamber or take the CPAP tubing off the mask, I always lubricate those connections with an Eco-Friendly, Plant-Based, Non-Toxic, Non-Petroleum-Based lubricant like Superzilla, Trick Shot, or Gear Hugger before I attach the CPAP tubing back to the water chamber or back to the mask. Without a good lubricant, it can be very difficult to take the CPAP tubing off.
https://www.amazon.com/Superzilla-Powerful-All-Purpose-Cleaner-Lubricator/dp/B00FSFCQTK/ Superzilla
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MSPQ569/ Trick Shot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09L11ZTDC/ Gear Hugger
* Also, whenever I change the water in the humidifier chamber, I always check to make sure the CPAP pressure is still correct with the manometer air pressure gauge. So far, I have not had to recalibrate the pressure.
NOTES
A.
I am very happy with this CPAP machine. I have been using it every night starting with the night of January 14, 2024.
B.
My original CPAP machine was a Fisher & Paykel HC234JHU. I loved it. I used it every night from 2005 when I got it to Dec. 31, 2023 (R.I.P.).
Dec. 31, 2023 to Jan. 14, 2024 was hell.
C.
The Sleep Study nurse (in 2005) said that I had the worst sleep apnea she had seen for the 15 years she had been doing that work. She was afraid I was not going to take another breath.
D.
My CPAP prescription in 2005 was 12 cmH2O.
E.
The noise level of this machine is very good (low). It would be even lower with a better enclosure.
F.
When I was a young boy, we went on a vacation to the mountains of Pennsylvania with my mother’s uncle (Henry Keller - Uncle Henry). During a stop, for the first time, we ran into bottled water being sold at a small local store. He said, ~“Before too long, we’ll have to buy air too.”
G.
Within the last year of my original CPAP machine’s (Fisher & Paykel HC234JHU) life, I measured “11.5” cmH2O (at 0 CFPM) with my manometer. The pressure of that CPAP machine has always been set to “12” cmH2O. I wish I knew why the difference, but it _may_ just be the age of that original machine.
H.
My manometer does not expel any air, so its pressure readings are being taken when there is no airflow (0.00 cubic feet per minute = 0 CFPM).
I.
It is important to understand that air pressure and low noise of the machine are not the only requirements for a good working CPAP machine. The CPAP machine must supply enough airflow (CFPM) also. My first attempt at building a CPAP machine used a different motor/blower. It could supply the correct pressure, but it did not supply enough airflow. I could not breath while trying it, no matter how much I turned up the pressure. That machine would hurt my throat (high near my nasal cavity) when there was too much pressure, and it was too noisy.
J.
At some point, I want to include here a CFPM (airflow) measurement of this good working CPAP machine, along with a noise level measurement; this machine has nice and low noise. I took CFPM-related measurements of my original CPAP machine before it died, but I need to find where I placed those measurements.
I am very happy with this CPAP machine. I have been using it every night starting with the night of January 14, 2024.
B.
My original CPAP machine was a Fisher & Paykel HC234JHU. I loved it. I used it every night from 2005 when I got it to Dec. 31, 2023 (R.I.P.).
Dec. 31, 2023 to Jan. 14, 2024 was hell.
C.
The Sleep Study nurse (in 2005) said that I had the worst sleep apnea she had seen for the 15 years she had been doing that work. She was afraid I was not going to take another breath.
D.
My CPAP prescription in 2005 was 12 cmH2O.
E.
The noise level of this machine is very good (low). It would be even lower with a better enclosure.
F.
When I was a young boy, we went on a vacation to the mountains of Pennsylvania with my mother’s uncle (Henry Keller - Uncle Henry). During a stop, for the first time, we ran into bottled water being sold at a small local store. He said, ~“Before too long, we’ll have to buy air too.”
G.
Within the last year of my original CPAP machine’s (Fisher & Paykel HC234JHU) life, I measured “11.5” cmH2O (at 0 CFPM) with my manometer. The pressure of that CPAP machine has always been set to “12” cmH2O. I wish I knew why the difference, but it _may_ just be the age of that original machine.
H.
My manometer does not expel any air, so its pressure readings are being taken when there is no airflow (0.00 cubic feet per minute = 0 CFPM).
I.
It is important to understand that air pressure and low noise of the machine are not the only requirements for a good working CPAP machine. The CPAP machine must supply enough airflow (CFPM) also. My first attempt at building a CPAP machine used a different motor/blower. It could supply the correct pressure, but it did not supply enough airflow. I could not breath while trying it, no matter how much I turned up the pressure. That machine would hurt my throat (high near my nasal cavity) when there was too much pressure, and it was too noisy.
J.
At some point, I want to include here a CFPM (airflow) measurement of this good working CPAP machine, along with a noise level measurement; this machine has nice and low noise. I took CFPM-related measurements of my original CPAP machine before it died, but I need to find where I placed those measurements.
DISCLAIMER
WEBSITE DISCLAIMER
The information provided by NoFreeWill.com (“I”, “me”, "we," "us," or "our") on nofreewill.com (the "Site") is for general informational purposes only. All information on the Site is provided in good faith; however, we make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability, or completeness of any information on the Site. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCE SHALL WE HAVE ANY LIABILITY TO YOU OR TO ANYONE ELSE FOR ANY DEATH OR LOSS OR DAMAGE OR INJURY OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF THE USE OF THE SITE OR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED ON THE SITE. YOUR USE OF THE SITE AND YOUR RELIANCE ON ANY INFORMATION ON THE SITE IS SOLELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
EXTERNAL LINKS DISCLAIMER
The Site may contain (or you may be sent through the Site) links to other websites or content belonging to or originating from third parties or links to websites and features in banners or other advertising. Such external links are not investigated, monitored, or checked for accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability, or completeness by us. WE DO NOT WARRANT ENDORSE, GUARANTEE, OR ASSUME RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE ACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF ANY INFORMATION OFFERED BY THIRD-PARTY WEBSITES LINKED THROUGH THE SITE OR ANY WEBSITE OR FEATURE LINKED IN ANY BANNER OR OTHER ADVERTISING. WE WILL NOT BE A PARTY TO OR IN ANY WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR MONITORING ANY TRANSACTION BETWEEN YOU AND THIRD-PARTY PROVIDERS OF PRODUCTS OR SERVICES.
PROFESSIONAL DISCLAIMER
The Site cannot and does not contain medical/health advice. The medical/health information is provided for general informational and educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional advice. Accordingly, before taking any actions based upon such information, we encourage you to consult with the appropriate professionals. We do not provide any kind of medical/health advice. THE USE OR RELIANCE OF ANY INFORMATION CONTAINED ON THE SITE IS SOLELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.